As caviar’s ascent in the U.S. has been a story of rising popularity, it’s now facing a significant challenge: escalating prices driven by American tariffs on Chinese goods. This shift is prompting a noticeable restraint within the culinary scene, particularly impacting chefs and their suppliers who previously embraced the delicacy’s innovative applications. Denver’s restaurants, once known for incorporating caviar into unexpected dishes – from scrambled eggs at Sunday Vinyl (1803 16th St. Mall) to fried chicken at Noisette (3254 Navajo St.) and even as a garnish for hot dogs at Yacht Club (3701 N. Williams St.) – are now navigating a landscape of increased costs. Even establishments like Brasserie Brixton (3701 N. Williams St.) have experimented with ‘bumps’ of kaluga caviar, offering a taste of this luxury.
The trend highlights the considerable price difference between caviar’s availability and its experience in different regions, as evidenced by the $148 caviar-stuffed crepe offered in Aspen. The Caviar Co., a key supplier responsible for sourcing much of the caviar in Denver, plays a crucial role in this evolving market. They account for 85% of the global supply of farm-raised sturgeon caviar, largely originating from China. However, the imposition of tariffs on Chinese goods has dramatically increased their costs, forcing adjustments across the board. Co-founder Petra Higby explains, "We’re trying to move our business around as much as possible, because ultimately, if we get too expensive, chefs are either going to stop buying it or it’s going to come [down] to the consumer." The company’s strategy involves cost-cutting measures elsewhere, including changes in packaging materials – the jars and tins used to package their product. This reflects a broader concern about the long-term viability of offering caviar at accessible price points.
Chef Nick Dalton of Brasserie Brixton has already implemented a 15% price increase on some of his caviar, acknowledging it’s the highest jump he’s seen this year. He emphasizes a desire to "have fun with it and allow people to experience caviar without breaking the bank." Tim Lu, the executive chef at Noisette, initially sourced Chinese kaluga from Caviar Co. until prices rose by $10 an ounce. He’s since transitioned to Polish sturgeon and Italian white sturgeon to maintain the caviar’s presence on his crepes and fried chicken. The situation is further complicated by the context of the Trump administration’s tariffs, initially reaching as high as 145% on Chinese goods. Technavio’s market research report, released before these tariffs, projected a global caviar market growth exceeding $470 million by 2028. Now, Higby expresses concern that vendors will continue to maintain high prices if the tariffs remain in effect, jeopardizing the restaurants’ ability to continue offering this luxury item. "We’re really trying to do our best to protect our chefs and the longevity of our restaurants," she stated.
This delicate balance between maintaining the allure of caviar and managing rising costs will undoubtedly shape the future of the delicacy’s presence in the American culinary landscape. Consider subscribing to our new food newsletter, Stuffed, to get Denver food and drink news sent straight to your inbox.
